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Con't from post above, since I'm limited on how many words can be in a post.

In order to remove and install the pins and bushings you will need a 5 or 6 inch C clamp. Try to get one with the hex head handle for sockets and not the T bar for hand use. You will get much better leverage using a socket. Note: DO NOT USE A HAMMER TO REMOVE THE PINS - YOU WILL ONLY BEND THE HINGE. If the pin does not come out with light taps then use the C clamp. The hinge will bend easily from hammer blows and cock the pin which will make extraction very difficult. Find a bolt or spacer that will fit between the upper and lower halves of the hinge right next to the pin. This will prevent the hinge from bending and give firm resistance to the C clamp pressure. Place a short 5/8" or larger socket over the pin head. Place the C clamp over the socket and bottom of the pin and tighten. After an initial resistance the pin should push out smoothly until the C clamp bottoms against the hinge. Keeping the bolt used for support in place, remove the clamp and drive the pin out the rest of the way using a hammer and drift. Remove the support bolt.

You now can inspect the bushings if they still exist. They can be removed by knocking out the shoulders with a chisel and then pushed out with a drift. Just contact the edge of the bushing with a small drift to push it out. If you use a drift that fits the hole it will only get stuck. If the bushing wasn't completely destroyed, you can determine if you need the large serrated bushing or the smaller smooth sided bushing. If the bushing was non existant then inspect the hole carefully and note if it has serrations. As I mentioned before, the '71 malibu convertible had the large serrated bushings for the top hinge and 1 for the top hole in the bottom hinge. Get your bushings and see if you can place them in the holes. If the bushings are loose in the holes then unfortunately you probably have to lay out the bucks for new hinges. The bushings should fit snugly with finger pressure or very light taps of a hammer. The bushings are placed on the hinge to pillar part of the hinge. One from the bottom and one from the top. Line up the door to hinge piece with the correct side up and insert the pin (you can lube with some lithium grease) with light taps of the hammer to get it started (the '71 malibu convertible had the top pin from bottom up and the lower pin from the top). Place the support bolt between the hinge next to where the pin will be placed to prevent the hinge from bending.
Place the C clamp over the pin head and hinge and start to tighten. You might have to guide the pin by leverging a screwdriver to guide the pin into the upper hole as you tighten the clamp. When the clamp bottoms against the pin, remove the clamp and place a socket over the tapered pin end and reclamp until the pin head bottoms againt the hinge. Stake the pin with a chisel. Remove the support bolt or spacer. This procedure is done for both hinges - be careful with the clamp on the top hinge and your fender. For clearance you need to have the adjusting handle up and the clamp screw comes very close to the fender edge, so place a rag between the screw and fender.

7) Don't forget that nasty detent spring sitting by the bench vise. You need to compress it and restrain it with wire on two sides. Note: THIS SPRING CAN CAUSE SEVERE INJURY IF IT SLIPS OUT OF THE VISE - BE CAREFUL. I cut some wire from my wife's tomato cages (she'll never know) with linemans pliers. 2 pieces about 6 inches long. I made sure no loved ones or pets were in the immediate vicinity (you can leave the beer drinking brother-in-law wearing your bathrobe right next to the vise). Place one wire through the coils and bend up and just begin the twist. Place the spring in the vise and start to compress - make sure the spring is centered up and down and side to side in the vise. Have the brother-in-law carefully check the placement and finish compressing the spring. Take the linemans pliers and twist the wire until tight. Open the vise carefully and insert the other wire on the opposite side. Tighten the clamp and twist the wire tight. Open the vise slowly and gingerly remove the spring. Do not leave the spring laying around but install it immediately. A compressed spring is very dangerous. It seems that the bottom hinge can be in any of the detent postions for spring insertion. For access I placed the bottom hinge in the closed position, made sure the detent lever was aligned with the roller and placed the spring into position with one end in the bump out of the detent lever and the other wedged into the bump on the hinge. It's still a tight fit but with a light tap of the hammer (while turning my head and wincing) I pushed the spring end over the bump. Carefully check the spring placement before removing the wire. I cut the twisted end with the lineman's pliers. One end of the wire was bent out and I grabbed it with the pliers. While pulling on the wire I put a screwdriver in between the coil to allow the other end of the wire to be pulled out.

8) Before replacing the door - The hinge area of the door is probably rusty. Carefully scribe the outline of the hinge and then wire brush the area. Mask off the hinge outline, plug the screw holes and spray paint. When you remove the masking tape . you will have a good outline for door placement. I would also place some caulking around the hinge perimeter. Get the hydraulic jack and have your helper join you to retrieve your door that was placed out of harms way. Place the door on the jack which was left in the same position when you removed the door and roll it close to the hinges. Make sure the hinges are in the open position. Start with a screw in the bottom hinge since the detent will prevent it from flopping around and move the door slightly until you can start the screw and snug it down. Do not tighten the screw. If you have trouble lining up the screws, you can get some studs from the local hardware or home improvement store with the same bolt size and twice the length. Screw a couple studs into the door and this will help to get the door close enough to start some bolts. Start all the bolts but only snug the outer bolt with the ratchet to allow lining up with your marks. Once lined up, tighten the outer bolt and the inner bolts which are accesible with the wrench.

Before checking door alignment insure the window is rolled down and remove the striker. Slowly close the door and check for alignment. The door to hinge bolts control the in and out adjustment of the door. If the door isn't flush with the front fender then adjust the door accordingly. Once the door is flush, roll up the window and close the door to check the glass alignment and then install the striker.

Congratulations - you now have a door that will close properly without pulling up on the door handle. You can even get in on the drivers side and close the door from the inside. Life is good.