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  #21  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:54 AM
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I'd pick the second one. The tighter LSA will help keep up cylinder pressures..and possibly give you a *little* thump on idle. Plus, it will probably work with stock springs...both size and pressure. Make sure you buy new lifters (the cheap Howards lifters from summit), and run a designated, by the book break-in and you should be good to go.

You won't need a bigger than stock converter with that cam.
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  #22  
Old 03-23-2011, 01:36 PM
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The whole motor is already together. We used Z28 springs on the valves. the motor kit came with all new parts. So I will have new lifters as well. Thanks for your help.
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  #23  
Old 03-23-2011, 03:01 PM
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You're welcome.
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  #24  
Old 05-19-2011, 01:17 PM
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Jake, Im ready to pull the trigger on the new cam. I ran the specs by a motor builder friend local and he suggested a 260adv. duration and a 410-430 lift. I found this
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1215318
Would that be applicable or should I stay with your suggestion of using this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1100/
I only question this because I told him the specs of the one we were discussing and he said that it was a stock spec cam.
It sounds to me like you may be more familiar with the specs of the parts Im using. But just wanted to throw it out there and get your feedback before I purchase a second cam. Thanks for your time.
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  #25  
Old 05-20-2011, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokenjoep01 View Post
Jake, Im ready to pull the trigger on the new cam. I ran the specs by a motor builder friend local and he suggested a 260adv. duration and a 410-430 lift. I found this
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1215318
Would that be applicable or should I stay with your suggestion of using this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1100/
I only question this because I told him the specs of the one we were discussing and he said that it was a stock spec cam.
It sounds to me like you may be more familiar with the specs of the parts Im using. But just wanted to throw it out there and get your feedback before I purchase a second cam. Thanks for your time.
Any input?
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  #26  
Old 05-20-2011, 03:00 PM
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20 years ago I rebuilt my 350 using a Competition Cam 260H. It worked great with mostly factory settings on the distributor and carburetor. The idle was not loppy but sounded crisp at idle. But like you, I wanted a choppy idle. 10 years ago I installed a Comp cam 280H, increased the compression to specs of the cam with headers. After countless hours of tuning the ignition curve and carb for a smooth operation, I find I have barely enough vacuum for my power disk brakes at idle and I am tired of keeping the RPMs up for city driving. (4spd car) Now I have decided to return to something that is close to a factory engine.
I like Jake’s recommendation but if you’re like me, sometimes you just need to forge ahead and lean from your own experiences.
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  #27  
Old 05-20-2011, 04:14 PM
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Reading through all this again, to refresh myself, I don't think that 1100 cam is much warmer than the stock grind. Such a small difference might not even make a difference, if you know what I mean.

Look at this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1787/

If you want something a *little* bigger, choose this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1069/
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Last edited by Highway Star; 05-20-2011 at 04:24 PM.
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  #28  
Old 05-23-2011, 01:22 PM
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Looks like I am going to have to return this one http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1215318
And order this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1787/
Transmission is going to the rebuilder today. Cant wait to get back on the body.
Thank you for all the help Jake.
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  #29  
Old 08-18-2011, 08:35 AM
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I like this tread. Any news?
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  #30  
Old 08-18-2011, 08:55 AM
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The motor is completed and sitting on the stand in my shop. The body is atthe paint shop. Hoping to have the motor back in the next couple weeks.
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