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Old 07-05-2016, 11:22 AM
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Default 68 SS hood bump dimentions

Can someone give me the size and location of the SS hood bumps. I have and extra regular hood and may try my hand at fabricating some. Thanks


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Old 07-05-2016, 11:56 AM
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I can do that. I will try to remember tomorrow when I am down doing my work before I get started.
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:57 AM
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Thanks


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Old 07-05-2016, 03:40 PM
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I went down to get something so I did it.

Okay it is rough as all get out and I hope you can make heads or tails of it. It is alot harder than i thought. Can't put the tape on the paint. Now I got to wash it again I got finger prints on everything LOL.

Be that as it may. Humps are taken from the center of the center ridge. In the middle of the humps from the back of the hood with chrome on it forward. They are 1 1/8 inch tall.

First is where the rise starts and then top and so on and so forth. In inches as I didn't mark that on the crude diagram. I used paint to make it.

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Old 07-05-2016, 03:45 PM
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As a side note. Find inch thick styrofoam used for insulation at lowes. Make and shape them with that. Then once your happy with the pattern lay fiberglass on them. That is how surf boards are made. It would be easiest and quickest way to shape them.
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:15 PM
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Thanks again. That's just what I needed. I was expecting a 33 1/2 X 12 type measurement. This is way better and will help tremendously.


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Old 07-05-2016, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevymaher View Post
As a side note. Find inch thick styrofoam used for insulation at lowes. Make and shape them with that. Then once your happy with the pattern lay fiberglass on them. That is how surf boards are made. It would be easiest and quickest way to shape them.
That's a great idea.
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:58 PM
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I read where putting fiberglass on a metal hood wasn't good because of different contraction rates and temps. Any truth to that?


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Old 07-05-2016, 07:59 PM
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Yes it is a issue. They do pop loose with all the flexing. I use studs in the glass and bolt it down. On plastic/fiberglass pre-made scoop in the past. Just make the head lower than the scoop with a countersink. Then fill over it. I have no issue with it on other body parts. Just really scratch up the metal it will stick.

So once the humps are made put threaded studs in it along the long parts. Use a bolt with a tapered head. Use a big drill bit to make the counter sink hole. Once the bolt is flush a little mat over it hold it in and still while the nut goes on underneath. And need less to say reinforce the area where your drilling for the bolt underneath.

Now once you got the holes in the hood and it fits the way you want. Resin the bottom with resin. Bolt it down. Once it is hard, rub resin with extra hardener over the seam to harden it under the seam a hair. Keep it from splitting once it is painted. Do your bondo pretty work. Then seal the mess with epoxy primer before final bodywork.

The fiberglass will flex with the metal once it is bolted down and stay with the metal.

70 camaro SS's had fiberglass hood scoop option, L-88 corvette style on a metal hood factory. it can be done if it is done right.
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:24 PM
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I do this non sense all the time so I keep assuming you know all this junk. Anyway as soon as I posted I had this brain fart. Oh he needs to know how to do this.

And to keep them from sticking to the hood during initial forming. Tape as flat as you can a layer of plastic to the hood. I use painters plastic instead of paper when I work. Painting or what ever I need to use it for. I get mine from the auto body supply place where I get my paint. I got a 10 mile roll of it hanging from the ceiling LOL so if you need some i will mail you some.

Anywho once the glass is hardening. It is hot and semi-hard. solid to touch. You can move it. It will still bend and warp, so it needs put back until it is fully hardened. It has a oily residue from hardening still. I would say a half hour. Pick it up the plastic will peel right off then. Put it back on the hood so it has support in the final shape of the hood. it may stick a little when it is fully cured. Just pop the hood underneath and it will pop right off. Let it cure untill that oily residue is pretty much gone 24 hours or so before going further. Then it will hold its shape forever.

That little oily layer cannot be disturbed until it is fully cured when you want it to stick to the metal. It has the JB Weld thing going on. If you touch it before its chemical magic is finished it will just pop off later. So once you bolt it on with the resin under it. Walk away and don't touch it for a few days.

Before you do bodywork let it lay in hot sun a few days. Heat lamps on it whatever. Uncomfortable hot to touch. That makes the fiberglass distort any that it is going to. Now it is in the final shape and will stay that way forever. Now bring it in and do the bodywork.
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