#1
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Starting my floor repairs
I finally had some time to start tearing into the cars interior today. I removed all the carpet and pad so I could determine how much of the floor had to be replaced. I'm going to salvage as much of the original floor as possible so I just need to cut out any of the bad flooring areas and weld in replacement pieces.
Here's some pics of my progress so far. carpet removed. Floor rusted out around floor support Rusted areas and patches needed I'll update with more pics as I go.
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1964 Malibu SS, now a LS1 and T56, Back halfed, rollbar, narrowed 9 inch, 4.11 gears and 31x16x15 Mickey SSR's on Weld wheels. |
#2
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Looks like a little bit of work. But at least it looks like you don't have to replace the whole floor. Keep us informed on your progress.
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Get in, sit down, shut up, hold on...cause Ms Grumpy is driving ! For the audio geek try: www.audiokarma.org |
#3
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Looks like a bit of work, but repairable. I would check out the rest of the floor for thin spots. It migh be easier to put in a larger repair panel in then have to do it again down the road it the rest of the floor is questionable. Keep us posted on your progress.
Ray
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Ray 1970 SS Chevelle Van Nuys Built |
#4
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my floor has approx the same areas for work, plus some at the passenger front area... 75% of the rest of the floor I repainted years ago and is still shiney
been thinking 1/4 floors, then 1/2's now a full floor.... and I'm only an amateur welder! LOL!! will be watching to see what you do |
#5
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Until you sandblast the entire floor, you really don't know the hidden weak spots hiding under the rust. The floor in my Camaro didn't even look that bad until I sandblasted them. Now, I contemplating replacing the whole thing. It all depends on your goals, budget, etc. on what you decide to do with them.
Mike
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1972 Chevelle SS |
#6
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I've gone over the entire floor with a scraper and hammer. The rest of the floor is very solid. I was actually surprised to see that I had these holes. This is an Arizona car and we really don't run into too much of this out here.
I'm going to cut out the bad spot and see how large the patches will be. If they are larger then expected I can simply cut more out from my replacement floor. Have any of you used any of the dynacorn products? They seem to be the cheepest I've found and there's a shop local to me that has them. Check out this website. They've got some incredible deals! http://www.restorationperformance.co...or-Pan,/Detail
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1964 Malibu SS, now a LS1 and T56, Back halfed, rollbar, narrowed 9 inch, 4.11 gears and 31x16x15 Mickey SSR's on Weld wheels. |
#7
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Any of you ever try corroseal rust converter? I'm going to use it on the areas that are salvageable.
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1964 Malibu SS, now a LS1 and T56, Back halfed, rollbar, narrowed 9 inch, 4.11 gears and 31x16x15 Mickey SSR's on Weld wheels. |
#8
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My father used to use rust-mort. It worked pretty good.
Seems like you have your work "cut out" for you man. Sorry. |
#9
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lol! yes I do! I didn't have much time after work tonight, but I did manage to cut the bad areas out of the drivers rear. I may cut more just to make the shape easier to work with, but I do have all the rusty floor removed from this section.
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1964 Malibu SS, now a LS1 and T56, Back halfed, rollbar, narrowed 9 inch, 4.11 gears and 31x16x15 Mickey SSR's on Weld wheels. |
#10
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Well I'm waiting for the drivers side floor pan to arrive so I started working on the passenger side since it wasn't nearly as bad. I've cut out the bad areas and cut my patch panels. It turned out very well for my first time doing any type of floor work. I'm happy with it so far. I will weld it all in once I get everything prepped and ready.
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1964 Malibu SS, now a LS1 and T56, Back halfed, rollbar, narrowed 9 inch, 4.11 gears and 31x16x15 Mickey SSR's on Weld wheels. |
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