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Old 06-24-2016, 03:11 PM
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Default Starter Issues

I usually can figure thing out about these cars, but my starter will not work.

Had the battery checked, it's ok. Putting out around 1100 amps
Had the starter check, failed the amp test so I had it rebuilt and replaced the starter solenoid.

Put the starter back in, car turned over a half of turn and then nothing. I'm now wondering if my neutral safety switch is acting up. When I checked it with my wife before I pulled the starter it seemed to be working. Pushed in the clutch power went through the solenoid to the starter.

Removed my ground cable and rechecked that. It like I'm not getting enough power to turn the starter over. Looking for any ideas or suggestions.
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Old 06-24-2016, 04:03 PM
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That is where i be looking first. Ground straps. Car to frame. Frame to core support. Block to frame. Battery to block. Did you just cross the solenoid with a screwdriver? Eliminate body wiring see if that does it.
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:11 PM
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I have 12.5 volts at top of the solenoid and after it come through the solenoid I have 10.5 volts? Safety switch seems to work, unless you push the clutch in I have no power to the starter.
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:13 PM
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I think the problem is in the steering column
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Last edited by shadowgray396; 06-27-2016 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:28 PM
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I would use a remote start. Just a wire to the solenoid to the battery. If it works then suspect wiring to the solenoid. If it does the same thing then look at the battery cable to starter and grounds from block to battery. Take the solenoid off and test for resistance across the contacts when it is engaged.

If they bench tested it and it spun. That says just that it is spinning. But is is producing torque. That cannot be bench tested.

But as I said just run a wire to the solenoid. That will tell the tale if it is in the cars wiring.

But 10 volts out of the solenoid tells me it is bad contacts in the solenoid. They are burnt and have resistance they should not have.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevymaher View Post
That is where i be looking first. Ground straps. Car to frame. Frame to core support. Block to frame. Battery to block. Did you just cross the solenoid with a screwdriver? Eliminate body wiring see if that does it.
Battery to block, alternator bracket in this case. That's the only ground required to turn the starter over. Everything on the engine is grounded through the engine and main negative cable back to the battery. The small pigtail off the negative cable to fender provides the chassis ground. The ground for lights, dash, etc. That's the only 2 grounds on my car and I haven't had one electrical issue in 12 years. In fact if you have all those other ground straps you mentioned but not a good connection from the engine to battery you'll fry that chassis ground cable. It will try to handle starter current and it ain't big enough. The engine to firewall and frame straps were only on some cars depending on year and radio option. They were a poor attempt to limit the ignition from causing electrical noise in the radio.

In theory the voltage drop across the solenoid should be 12v. One side is ground the other side gets 12v from ignition switch. If it doesn't drop 12v across the solenoid I'd be looking at the engine ground. Battery cables as well.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:34 PM
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None of this problem is a ground issue, I have no power coming from the ignition to the solenoid. No burnt out fuses. I'm going to give it one more look tonight and it's on tow truck headed to a friends garage otherwise. While it's there going to have the rear main seal replaced that is leaking badly, (may have to pull the motor out). Car only has 500 miles on it and I have oil every where underneath from it leaking. At this I'm ready to sell it.
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Last edited by shadowgray396; 06-27-2016 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:36 PM
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This sounds like the same problem I had years ago and to make a very long story short it ended up being my wiring harness to the starter, I was changing everything and then the harness from fuse block to starter and then I looked at the old harness as I was taking connectors off and the wires closest to engine were held together by the tape as the insulation had dissinagrated.

I have not had a issue since and changed every wiring harness except the dash and it was the best thing I did besides the 5 speed.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowgray396 View Post
None of this problem is a ground issue, I have no power coming from the ignition to the solenoid. No burnt out fuses. I'm going to give it one more look tonight and it's on tow truck headed to a friends garage otherwise. While it's there going to have the rear main seal replaced that is leaking badly, (may have to pull the motor out). Car only has 500 miles on it and I have oil every where underneath from it leaking. At this I'm ready to sell it.
Now we looking at switches then.

It is a nice car I wouldn't do that. Could be in my shoes. 13 years and haven't driven it since you bought it. Drove it 5 times took it apart never to run again.

I have had passing thoughts like that before this one was painted. Now I am more than happy just looking at it sitting there.

The SS I had was all done and it was loosing oil pressure after only 5 minutes running. I mean perfect pressure and then keep dropping to zero and back. Turned out the oil pick up fell out and once oil was in the valve covers it was running out. Had to pull the engine and the pan to even find out WTF. Tack welded that baby in solved that.

It will just be a bad memory soon hang in here.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:46 PM
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Well looks like you have narrowed down some. I would pull engine harness at the firewall and see if you have 12v to there, try to narrow down more, to inside the car or under the hood.
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