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Old 04-11-2010, 02:32 AM
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Highway Star Highway Star is offline
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Default A little wiring help

Hank, I've seen some of your electrical knowledge spread around before, and I was hoping for a little personalized tech advice from you on this.

I'm curious about the grounds I have ran in the engine compartment of my '72. I ran these wires a few months ago:

Battery to chassis #2/0
Block to chassis #2
Body to chassis #10

All of these wires are connected to the same point on the chassis, towards the front of the engine compartment, using an existing bolt that fastens part of the steering to the frame rail. I scraped to bare metal and all the connections are tight.

I'm wondering if I need a ground braid from the engine to somewhere on the body/firewall. Why? I don't know.


I guess I have two questions.....


I was also trying to correct a mis-wired HEI coil, that was being fed by two wires, a yellow from the solenoid AND a pinkish (brownish/reddish) wire from the firewall...

I ran a new wire from the fuse panel IGN blade and put it in the same loom as the signal wire for the tach. This is right, huh? The weird thing is that the radio switched power wire was already plugged in there. I moved it to ACC. That IS where it goes, isn't it?

Thanks...
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1972 Malibu Sport Coupe - ~9.8:1 355"
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:28 AM
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Hank70SS Hank70SS is offline
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Ok, you're referring to the frame as the chassis correct? Typically chassis means the body, sheet metal. No problem as long as I understand what you mean.

Nothing wrong with the way you have it grounded. No need for the braided wire to firewall unless you're getting ignition noise in the radio. Not sure the braided grounds will solve it but that was the original purpose for them. They were only installed at the factory if the car was equipped with a radio. No radio, no braided ground straps.

The yellow wire fed 12v to the coil while cranking. Open at the solenoid with the key in any other position except start. The other wire if it's original is a resistance wire, provided a reduced voltage, around 9v, to the coil while running. The insulation on that wire is cloth type material.
The reduced voltage helped the points last longer. The full 12v while cranking made it easier to start.

The IGN blade in the fuse block is the correct place for the HEI power unless you want to open the harness. Some guys replace the resistance wire in the forward harness with a regular 12g wire. That's a lot of work and the way you have it is fine, that's how mine is.

Yes the radio should be connected to ACC. Power only in run or ACC key position. You could also tap the original radio power feed but again nothing wrong with tapping the ACC tab in the fuse block.
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Old 04-11-2010, 09:08 AM
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Incredible....Thanks Hank!!

and yes, I did mean "FRAME" when I was saying chassis.

I'm glad I don't need to run that ground, because I wasn't sure how to get a good connection on the firewall anyways.


Again, thanks a MILLION, Hank.
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Old 04-11-2010, 11:09 AM
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Glad I could help a little. Just to add, I would completely remove the yellow. Take the resistance wire and fold it back into the harness and tape it up good, just in case you or someone else ever want's to go back to original. You probably did those things already, just thought I would mention.
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