I guess I had more time than money so I redid my harnesses myself.
I did one harness at a time. Then one wire at a time.
I unsnapped the bulkhead connector for the forward wiring harness and then checked, cleaned, and redid each individual wire if needed. Hooked it all back up.
Unsnapped the bulkhead connector for the engine harness and did the same thing.
With both connectors loose, I took the fuseblock and dash harness loose and cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned, the fuseblock and cleaned, checked, and redid what wires were needed.
Then moved on to the harnesses back to the rear end of the car.
Took a while but I am happy. I had lots of new wire, soldering gun, and heat shrink, and connectors.
I also used up a few roles of the cold shrink tape.
When I got into it, I was amazed at how many wires had been spliced over the years and just twisted together with electrical tape over them. :eek:
Real pain to rewrap the wires with the cold shrink tape. Looks good though.
I did have a friend helping me. He has a lot of knowledge of electrical systems and we installed some inline fuse links.
Everything works except the horn and all those parts in the steering wheel, horn relay, and horns are new. I'll get it figured out. I can ground it out and the horn works. Something in the wheel I think. Not bad for a car that sat here at the house with the engine/tranny out of it for 17 years.
If I had the money, I would have went with the plug and play harnesses but close to $1500 bucks.
Best of luck.

Im about to go through this, but since im not a numbers matching kind of guy on this Chevelle I decided to go with the American Autowire Kit. Pretty much a plug and play deal with additional circuits for extra options. Its about $500 for the WHOLE car, not bad in my book. All the connections are made to original spec so there should really be not much cutting/soldering except on aftermarket goodies like stereo systems, alarms etc...I plan to start this project in the next month. Here is the kit I am getting:

http://shop.americanautowire.com/cla...2chevelle.aspx

Nice; it looks allot like a Painless kit with the new style fuse block, wiring, etc but it's looks like the connections have already been cut and terminated like the kit they make for the Mustangs. Let us know how it turns out! On my Camino I covered the bulkhead whole using two steel plates and gaskets using the factory holes and just adding bolts that go thru the same locations the factory connector used. I then mounted the new fuse block to the plate so the fuse block is in the same location as the old one. Also It was nice because I didn't have to cut any new holes since the block is in the same location I just used the factory holes.

That's a nice looking kit and good price. Let us know what you think once you start installing it.

Hey, Herbie. I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I have more time than money. I'm also interested in keeping things original as I can along the way. I do have a couple questions for you based on your experience. What did you use to clean the harnesses? My car was undercoated, so the bulkhead connector is pretty caked up with that stuff. Also, where did you get your cold shrink tape? I've never dealt with it before.

Now this is the way to go, yes please keep us posted.

I agree keep us posted, great price.
Ray

John,
The cold shrink tape is a non sticky tape that looks like the factory harness tape. I bought mine at a local auto parts store. You stretch it around and it sticks itself.
Good trick at the end of a wrap: Take some fishing line and make a loop. Put the line on the tape where you have already wrapped when you only have 2-3 wraps left. Keep the loop end hanging over where you will end. The tag ends are hanging out the other side. Wrap the last few wraps over the line and cut the tape with a little extra. Stick the end of the tape thru the loop. Pull the tag ends until the line snugs the tag piece of tape. Now jerk the tag end of the fishing line. This will pull the end of the tape under the wrapped tape. Never have to worry about coming loose. Learned this wrapping eyes on fishing poles.
You can use some laquer thinner and a brush to clean the outside of the connectors.
Electrical contact cleaner and a small wire brush also to clean the insides.
I unwrapped all the old harness. One harness at a time. I then replaced any wire that was cut, spliced, or brittle with new wire of the same size and length by soldering the new wire to the old and heat shrink over the splice. Butt connectors and heat shrink would work also. Really have to take your time if you do it yourself.
I wrapped all the wires with the cold shrink tape. I had a friend help with part of it and he would hold the end I started with and I would pull the wire tight while wrapping.
I also got some started and then tied to a post to do by myself.
A wiring diagram for your car is a must. Never could have done it without one.
Hope this helps.
We painted my car here at the house, I installed all trim, and I installed the interior myself.
If you have the money, the plug and play harness will save a huge amount of time....
so will a "good" body shop and interior specialist.
PM me if I can help anymore.

Just finished my dash harness like you described. I took it one step further and disassembled each wire from the connectors and used a small wire wheel on my Dremel to clean each brass connector. I then took each copper light contact (little rivet type) for each light bulb socket and put in a solution (vinegar and salt) to take any corrosion off. I used lacquer thinner to clean the surface of the wires.

If you want to get the brass tabs out of the plastic retainer clips, just slide a small screw driver inside the clip a pull lightly to remove. You shouldn't have to pull hard if you depress the tab that holds it in the plastic clip. You will have to bend up on the brass retaining flange before you re-insert it or it wont stay in the plastic clip.

Will keep you all updated. I will take some pictures as I go. Just got to wait till next payday to get it ordered and finish up the suspension and firewall. Than I will place the engine back in the frame rails and get to work!