lol naw just want to go faster lol motor is built to handle it just got figure out what gear to go with

Never checked the time,but Maureen usually catches me before I get to the end of our road.;)

Glenn you need to give a little bit of the story on your car.

My old 2000 Z28, 10.777 @ 124.94 MPH. My current 2001 SS, 13.teens are the norm. MPH depends on traction... it ranges from 114-119 MPH. 17" street tires, lazy 3.42 gears, 6 speed = a recipie for drag racing fail. Slicks and gears would put the car into the 11's with two feet.

The Chevelle, yet to be seen... I am hoping to be in the 13.30 range. It's being built to run in the Pure Stock/Factory Stock clases. Has to look stock, idle stock, meet a certain DB rating, all on polyglass tires. It is powered by a class legal LS5, power transfered through a 4 speed. Should be interesting to say the least.

my 88 rx7 with the ls6/t56 in it did a 12.2 117mph really bad 60 of 2.1 i had to traction. which is a big improvement with the stock motor which got me 16.1 then with the turbo gave me 14.9. so to go from 16.1 to 12.2 i think i am happy with that :)

'67 chevelle, LS1 swap, cam, ported stock heads, carb'd, 100 shot, stock susp. 235/60/15 M/T drag radials

12.2 on motor
11.5 on bottle

I have plans to take my Chevelle to the track in April. Curious to see what it will run...any ideas? I am thinking mid 12's. BTW, 400 SB stroked to a 415, 485 hp, 2800 stall, T-350 trans., eaton posi rear with 373's.

Unless you just spin to the 1/8th I think you have a very good shot of mid 12's with a decent 60 foot.

How well does it hook? And is that 485HP @ the crank? What does the car weigh?

485 hp on the dyno. As far as hooking up...she definitely will spin those tires if I 'm not careful. But I am planning on bringing a set of slicks on steel rims just in case. To be honest, I am more curious than anything. I figured 12's b/c I used to have a Mustang gt that ran 13's and this is much faster. Time will tell!

Thanks for the input, by the way! I will keep you posted.

I pulled the stock 350 out and put in a very healthy 406 sb and a 350 trans with a 10 bolt and 3.73 gears. No suspension mods. Went 11.28 and 11.30 with a 1.62 and 1.60 60'. On pump gas, street car!

10.37 at 129.6,1.42 60 ft.

13.74 at 98 mph. Richmond T-10 4 speed with 3.73 rear gears and 350. Car wieghs 3600 with me in it. 60ft 2.teens usually.

That is VERY respectable for a small block and street tires.

I'll be glad when the tracks open up again!

None of my cars have ever been on the dragstrip but theve been on a few Nascar tracks ,Talledeega was the best.

I cut my commute time to work from 8 minutes to 6 since I got my Mustang 5.0

I am on the edge of my seat waiting to see what the fate of our local track will be. It closed last year, is rumored to have been sold to a new owner/operator. But, sits idle at the moment. :( I have a lot of good memories there, I really hope it reopens under new management soon.

I am contemplating taking my car to the strip. I have one nearby, they have a 1/4 mile and 1/8 mile strip. I have no clue what to expect as I've never done it before. My real concern is should I attempt it with the set up I have. With a 3:73 rear and 3 speed auto, I fear I'd be tacking way to high for 1/4 mile. At 60 miles an hour, I am tacking at 3,000. I'd rather not risk damaging the engine for a few seconds of fun. Maybe try out the 1/8 first?

John, I would not worry about that. Where do you shift the car at? Even if you trapped 120 MPH - you would only be around 6,000 RPM at the stripe. I have 3.73's in my car, and will be on a 26.5" tall tire. I expect around 106-109 MPH, and have a low RPM big block. I did the math, and I should be right where I need to be when it crosses the stripe. For best possible ET, you always want to be about 200-400 RPM past the RPM where you make peak power.

Don't give it a second thought, go have fun!

what transmission do you have? Honestly with automatic I have not paid attention to the shift point under high acceleration.

Muncie 4 speed, my 4th is the same 1:1 ratio as 3rd gear in your TH350.

Do you have a tachometer? I would experiment manually shifting it. See where it likes it, the ETs will show you where that is. Take a pen and a small note book with you. Record shift points, launch RPM & technique, tire pressure, etc.

When I sold my 2000 Z28, I gave the buyer a note book to dummy proof driving the car. It had shock settings, launch RPM, staging technique, tire pressure settings, and how to adjust them for track conditions. I had the car dialed in pretty well. My ETs generally never varied more than a few hundreths of a second.

yeah got a tach. Talk to me about launch rpm?

What tires do you have? Size? What do you know about the torque converter?

All of that will affect how the car leaves. I got my best 60' times with the Z28 by bringing the RPMs up to 2500-2600 while holding the brake, then going wide open on the third yellow. Any lower, and the car left soft. If running a street tire, I don't recommend that method. On street tires, I always take a little bit of slack out of the driveline. Then on the 3rd yellow, let off the brake and roll the throttle to the floor as quickly as the tires will allow.

I took some time to read up on torque converters and now have a much better understanding of how they work. The torque converter I have is a Hole Shot 3200. Although wide, my tires are street but I don't have size off top of my head. I also now understand why my 406 runs on the hot side. I didn't realize the higher the stall, the higher the temps run in the transmission.

John, do you have a transmission cooler on it? Also, 400's have siamesed bores with steam holes. They don't have the exact same cooling passages as the rest of the early SBC engine family. They tend to run a little warmer. Also, things like DCR, cam overlap, etc - will affect engine temps. Hell, even the size of the exhaust system will somewhat dictate how warm an engine runs.

Based on what you've told me, I would load the converter a little bit at the line. On the third yellow, pop the brake and let it roll forward, then roll the throttle to the floor. (DON'T JUST MASH IT UNLESS YOU WANT TO DO A STARTING LINE BURNOUT) See where it shifts just leaving it in D. If it shifts low and falls on it's face, experiment shifting at different RPMs.

I would look into the trans cooler for sure. Carpoor was right when he talked about the many factors that can dictate the engine temp. I know that the trans cooler helped me a lot.

Something else I want to suggest since you will be on street tires, race with a full tank of gas. I even go one step further, I remove the valve stem in the spare tire. Then using some small tubing hooked to an old washer pump, I fill my spare with water. It adds weight to the right part of the car.

There are other tricks like trimming down the bump stops on the upper control arms. It will give you more suspension travel. (I went one step further and completely removed mine)

I am dedicated to making my car hook on a limited tire. (Reproduction Good Year poly glass G60-15s)

Yes it does have a heavy duty trans cooler but original radiator. The previous owner did the build up. The converter is a B&M 3000 stall not 3200. I thought I'd call the owner and ask him what times he got. He did say without good racing tires you can't really launch using the converter or it will just sit an spin. Your suggestion to roll the throttle carefully without breaking loose would be my best bet.

And the verdict is? Have you had a chance to race the car yet?

I can't wait to see what times you do.

John, if you are still interested in racing the car - my good friend moved to Maryland recently. (Catonsville to be exact) He is a track rat and and could help you with your car. I can put you in direct contact with him. Very knowledgeable guy with an engineering degree.