I cut up a extra hood for metal, and got very cozy with a mig welder a long time. Weld and grind. I actually used that hood for most of my rust repairs.

When you get that far I got a part number for some awsome pop rivets. They are the chrome studs.

Jason, I just had to fix the rust around the back glass like you have couple of months ago on my car. On my build page in the link you can see how I cut it out and welded it back in to give you a sort of idea. I'm no expert but it worked for me.

http://chevelleforum.org/showthread.php?t=4087&page=22

Depending how bad it is a new roof skin might be the way to go or you have to make the pieces you need. Need to blast all that area to remove the rust. If you blast the roof top don't stay in one place to long because you can warp it if you create to much heat.

I would want to know how bad the rust is under that roof on the inner structure.
Replacing the roof sounds like a big job but it may be benificial in the long run
At least you can do your drip rails at the same time and have a look at structure.

The roof, top and bottom, is virtually rust free except for around the windsheilds. The drip rails are also in good shape.

What is the difference in a roof panel and a roof skin? Here is a panel from GU
http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/RP-1418.html

There the same. Just different way to say it. If the roof is in good shape and only a few small areas to repair then just repair the bad spots.

Totally agree with this statement. A shrinker/stretcher tool will help with making patches for the area above the windshield. But isn't 100% necessary. I've done it without one, but the tool was cheap enough. (Plus I still have two cars to do... if I don't drag home anything else.)

Before you do any rust repair be sure to draw a picture and measure where the studs are around the windshield and back window so you know where to replace them after the rust repair is done. Most people forget to do that. They make a replacement stud that screws in once you have that area fixed.

Thanks guys.


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So, I had a little time so I started cleaning up a rear fender well. After a good run with a wire wheel and some greased lightening I realized that the underbody has been coated with a undercoat of some sort. Seems pretty heavy duty as wire wheel won't remove it. My question is, since I plan on making this an everyday driver car and planned on some type of good undercoat, should I remove all this just to go back with another?http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...d78a3b9690.jpg


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I did. And it was a nightmare. You may find rust under it. Nothing bad but there non the less. It peels loose and it is under the edges in places. It did its job well but it is 50 years old almost.

I used a torch and a scraper.

Hey guys, I have found a craigslist post for a 68 chevelle front clip(pictured below) I dont have a front bumper, grill, headlights, bezels, my core support is also in rough shape. I cant tell by pic if that is a SS hood, (which I want to swap to) My header panel also needs replacing. Does this look like it would be worth $200 and a 2 hour trip.http://images.craigslist.org/00p0p_i...ld_600x450.jpg

Looks like a flat stock hood and not an SS one.

That front license plate mount is a very hard to find part ,probably worth 1/2 or more of what he is asking for all of it .If the fenders are solid they are worth more than the asking price alone ,again very hard to find 68 stuff.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...2fec80c583.jpg I picked up this front clip off craigslist.


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The headlight trim is also hard to find in good condition.

Good purchase

I have found a 95 chevy truck 5.7 with a 700r trans for $500. Trans was rebuilt, motor runs (can hear) but according to this guy it needs a rod bearing. How would this work out for a drivetrain swap. What all is involved in keeping fuel injection.

95' would be a low performance TBI engine. I would pass. Ideally, you need to find a 4.8 or 5.3 out of a 2000 or newer GM truck, SUV, or van. I've seen complete vehicles fairly cheap with accident damage - making a great donor vehicle.

Hey guys, I just bought a wrecked 93 trans am LT1 with 130k miles. Besides drivetrain, what all can I use on my 68. Brakes, rearend, wheels, ect...

The rear axle is the equivalent of a 98lb weakling, plus not a direct bolt in. The rear brakes are about all that is useful. Wheels are the wrong offset.

Engine/transmission/rear brakes, possibly the front seats are what you can use.

Got the frame apart. About ready for some paint. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...aee7302f1e.jpg


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Btw. Anyone ever use a front end rebuild kit from Jegs?


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No my parts came from summit. Same basic thing tho. Are you going to epoxy Prime your frame and POR it. Looks like your doing a good job there.

Going with por. Had to use a brush on or take it somewhere. Wallet said to stay at home.


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They sell cans of POR. Spray can type. If it is humid where you are it is best to epoxy prime first to seal it tho. POR leaves pores in the paint if it is humid when applied, and it will have annoying little red dots in the paint there.

I got more paint on my frame than most do on the hood LOL Epoxy primer, POR, and several layers of hot rod black. Took the frame off painted it. Put it back on. Did bodywork and got primer all over everything over the years. Then took it back off and painted it again before final bodywork and paint. That time I mask the bottom and frame. Tired of painting that now.

Don't breath it or get it on your skin. I would use Eastwood frame paint over POR. Read about the health warning about POR. Also check all your welds while you have it down to metal. I ended up rewelding some of my frame to fix small cracks. Here's one area I rewelded.

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/y...dCoatShop5.jpg

I second what Ray suggests on paint. It is a good time to check not only the welds, but how square it is. A coworker is restomodding an 81' Corvette, he jumped the gun and spent a wad on powder coating the frame - only to find it was tweaked in several spots once he began reassembly.

He dismissed my words when I told him, "Build it twice, once in the rough - then again as a finished product."

My bumpers on my 68 look good from the front but they are rusty on the back sides. What's the best way to remove and then treat to prevent rust from returning.


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Naval Jelly will remove rust, Evaporust, and Vinager are some opitions.

So after rust removal do I need to paint it to seal it?


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I had mine rechromed and painted the backs of them with black enamel paint .

I did. I used a etching primer and Eastwood Detail Gray on mine.

I would give em a sand blast then a few coats of epoxy primer then a single stage
urethane color.

Got the frame painted. And all my bushings have arrived. Bought ready to put it back together. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...646a236efa.jpg


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Looks good. What did you use on it?

Frame looks great jason....also wana know what the finish is.

por 15 gloss black


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That does look nice .