engine oil??
 

Ok so when i rebuilt my motor i had a friend of mine tell me i should run 20w-50 in my 454. I have not had any issues as far as oil goes my pressure stays while nice and warm about 27psi at idle. I had good bearing clearance with no issues. I want to change the oil on the 454 this week since its been a few months i was thinking about going to 15w-40 since its getting cooler out now what do you guys think? Also should i add a bottle of zinc to my setup since i have a flat tappet cam?

Mobile 1 Synthetic 10W40 is a great oil. Over at TC a guy did a complete oil breakdown of every oil out there and this one out shines all the rest.

do you have a link for that by any chance? also with the mobile 1 did you need to add zinc?

No, you don't need to add anything. Here is the link for the info on different oils. You'll notice in his 2nd post there are 2 oils above the Mobile 1 one. The first one he cant find any data to back it up and the second one is for racing only. Above I told you 10W40 when it should've been 5W30.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...nt+engine+oils

Valvoline silver bottle conventional oil. Full of minerals that will help protect the camshaft and bearings.

Carpoor, that's basically a racing oil and not recommended for street use.

Depends on who you ask. I use it with no issues. I am not a fan of synthetics in BBCs, too thin IMHO.

A thinner oil isn't necessarily bad. People often think a thicker oil is better because it raises the oil pressure. True but the down side is it reduces oil flow. Thicker oil raises oil pressure because it can't flow as easily through all the places it needs to go. If high oil pressure is your goal go with something really thick. Oil pressure will go through the roof but your engine will suffer due to lack of lubrication.

A thinner oil flows easier so you're moving more oil through the system which helps with cooling and filtering of the oil.

Castrol 20/50 or w30. With some zinc additive.
Its nice and warm in florida so I don't need a low visc oil.

I run 15-40W synthetic in everything i own. It looks better coming out than some of the Pee-water some of my customer put in. I actually put my used vans motor oil in a customers rebuilt engine because the garbage they brought me was terrible. If it going to have a shot at breaking in it needed actual oil in there. I would rather it throw a rod after they work on it, than before.

not looking for oil pressure going up the roof i want the best protection and good oil pressure that is all that matters from me

Not sure how hot your summers are there, but you may find yourself switching viscosity by the season. My father ran thinner oil in the winter, thicker in the summer.

Van is garage kept and it does crank slower in the -25 degrees range when it is outside over nite because i using the garage. Durango is outside year round fires right up.
I had 230 thousand on the van when a oil cooler line broke forcing me to rebuild it. Parts were clean and looked like new so they must be lubricated well. It is the same engine now with 270 thousand. Bearings rings and gaskets. Durango has almost 200 don't use oil and runs strong. But honestly thinner would be better for winter. But I having incredibly good luck with anything i use this oil in. So if it ain't broke don't fix it.

yeah i was thinking of going to 15w-40 that seems to be the best

The guy who rebuilt my motor gave me a case of oil with it and said to run this "Joe Gibbs Driven HR-2 High Zinc Formulation 10W-30 for my big block

I've been using Brad Penn Grade 1 in 10W30 in my BBC, no complaints except I have to drive a little further to get it.

http://www.penngrade1.com/

Gary

I picked up some 10w-30 and seems to be good nice pressure seems good