1968 build thread
 

Hope this is the right place to start this thread. This build will take me awhile to finish and I will have tons of questions. Attachment 3524Attachment 3525


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I am currently taking everything off the car so I can get the frame out from under it. Attachment 3526


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Jason there is a lot of knowledge here. And nice people too. Many of us have been where you are and will do our best to help you along.

Let the fun begin. Been there and done that. Took 7 years for me before I drove it again.

Thanks guys. So, what should my order of operations be? As I said earlier I have been stripping everything off of it.


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Save everything, tag and bag it all.

Where is the best place to get a body bushing kit? Any that I should stay away from?

I'm currently doing the same thing but I started on it a bit over year ago. Like carpoor said, ziplock is your friend, bag and tag EVERYTHING!!! Also, take as many pictures as you can! If your taking the body off the frame. I would start with striping the frame down and cleaning (sandblasting) and painting the frame and replacing the suspension the bushings unless your upgrade components.

I can't say anything for other brands but I pretty sure I got mine from Ground Up and they seem to be pretty good quality and they came with new bolts.

I got my body bushings from Energy suspension. Same time I got my A-Arm and 4 link stuff.

Almost all vendors sell all the same stuff. I went with a local vendors, built a repor with them. Save on shipping and could return things when they were not correct. I have purchased from Ground up also. Always get the persons name who helps you, that way you have a contact.

How many bolts hold the body to the frame. I found and removed 6. 2 behind each rear wheel and 2 at the front corners.


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My 68 has 8 not counting the 2 on the core support. 2 By the rear bumper area. 2 behind the rear wheels. 2 in front of the rear wheels 6 inches or so away. And 2 in the front cab area.

On mine, just the body itself I had 12 bolts, 6 pair. Two pair behind the rear axle. One pair above the rear axle, one pair in front of the axle, one pair in the middle of the body and one pair in where the fenders meet the body. I have about 500 pictures from my build so far in the photobucket link in my signature if you need to reference anything.

You should be able to see the holes in these two pictures that are about 1.5 inches in diameter where the bushing should be at. On some cars the one right behind the crossmember is just a bushing without a bolt in it.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...pslqtz8fsv.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...g3m3vj6g-1.jpg

Awesome. Thanks guys.


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Yep I went down and looked last night and I missed a couple.

Attachment 3531Attachment 3532Attachment 3533Attachment 3534


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Justin you have some great pictures from your build.

A little progress. Attachment 3535


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Thanks Nancy

Jason looks like you've got a pretty good start! Mine was sitting like that not to long ago. A word of caution if I may, the block you are using to hold the car up are very weak in the center where the board is laying, they are much stronger if you were to turn them 90° so the board is laying on the two tips sticking up and even stronger when laying flat if you had enough block. My grandpa, dad, and uncles were all brick masons and I've been around it my whole life. I'd just hate to see one of the block give and hurt you or your car.

Thanks for the heads up. I will address the block issue in the morning as I am also going to use a strap system from the trusses for extra safety.


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Looks all to familiar. Brings back so many memories. Just remember your trusses most likely won't hold the weight either with out an extra brace to the floor.

Attachment 3536a little extra safety.


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Quick question, I would like to have a modern drive train as i want this to be my everyday driver eventually. So I would like decent gas mileage and I don't plan on racing anybody. A friend of mine suggested getting a wrecked late model camaro for a donor car. Any one attempted anything like that before. Could I use braking systems, radiator, engine, trans, ect...

A cheap, powerful candidate would be a 4.8 or 5.3 and transmission from a 99'+ GM truck. An engine and transmission from a "sports car" tends to command a higher price and requires premium fuel.

Just my $0.10

You will need to learn more about tall and short spindles. Here a link that Derek wrote up on here about disc brakes.

http://chevelleforum.org/showthread.php?t=18

Tall and short spindles

http://chevelleforum.org/showthread.php?t=519

Picked up some car dollys this afternoon. Hope to get the frame out from under it in the morning.


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Frame is out, but sadly I figured out my pressure washer pump is cracked. Time to hit up a buddy. Attachment 3544


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First thing I did also.

I pressure washed the frame for the 72' LeMans, absolutely saved me a ton of time. I remember the days of using a scraper and wire brush... Ugh.

Great progress Jason.

1968 build thread
 

Someone close to me has some 71 chevelle discs, calipers, pads, rotors and brake lines for $60. Will these work for my front disc conversion? Is it a good deal?http://images.craigslist.org/00t0t_l...3Z_600x450.jpg



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Need the spindles if you have drum brakes or you have to modify the old spindles. $60 is a very good deal

I got the brakes. Attachment 3548


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Great buy if you got that for $60. Around here that's between $200 to $250 for that set up.

That was a great deal ,you did good .

Anybody ever turned their car on its side to do underbody work? I've seen some mattress and old tire methods on the web.


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I borrowed a Car Rotisserie to do mine.

I used a lift. I don't think I would be laying weight on the side of the car. I think buy some real big jack stands and use a creeper.

How does one tackle this issue?http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...c14989efd1.jpg


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Also in backhttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...d35003a901.jpg


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