[shadowgray396]

Here's a post I used.

Rebush the top hinge first.
Roll down the window and close the door.
Felt tip marker or some primer paint to mark hinge position, both halves of both hinges.
Remove 3 upper hinge-to-body bolts.
Carefully unlatch door and support the trailing edge on one of those padded adjustable height rolling stools.
Fully open the door supported by stool and remove hinge-to-door bolts. You'll need a combination wrench on these. Remove the hinge.
Grind staking off the hinge pin and drive it out with a hammer and drift. Support bottom of the hinge with a socket while driving out the pin.
Remove the hinge pin, replace the bushings, and install new hinge pin using a dab of lithium grease. New pin installs from bottom side.
Use a sharp chisel to re-stake new pin in place.
Reinstall the hinge in reverse order.

Bottom Hinge.
Roll down the window and close door.
Remove the 3 lower hinge-to-body bolts.
If detent and spring are still intact, use a screwdriver and pump pliers to pry the hinge to its' fully open position. You'll have to pry the bottom of door out slightly to clear the hinge from door jamb. You can do this while the door remains latched.
Place a block of wood between bottom of door and rocker panel to give yourself a straight shot at the phillips screws holding the hinge to the door.
Get the biggest honking phillips screwdriver you can find, and using the pump pliers for better leverage, remove 3 hinge-to-door flat head screws.
If the phillips head strips out, a hammer and chisel are required to loosen the screws.
Remove the hinge.
Clamp hinge in a vise and cover with a towel to catch the detent spring when you lever it out with a flat screwdriver. Carefully remove the spring.
Remove hinge pin as above. New bushings go on the center half of the hinge.
Grind off the top of the detent stud and remove old roller.
Grind remaining portion of detent stud flush with the hinge. You should see a perfect circular outline where original detent stud was pressed into the hinge.
Use a center punch to mark the stud center. Support hinge vertically and use a drill press to drill 1/8" pilot hole. Move the bit in and out to clear chips. Continue drilling until bit breaks through bottom side of original detent stud.
Use a #7 bit to enlarge the hole, drilling all the way through the original detent stud.
Use cutting oil and a 1/4x20 hand tap to thread for the new detent stud.
Install new detent roller on the stud with a bit of lithium grease and install the stud with a dab of locktite, making sure the detent lever is on correct side of roller.
Reassemble hinge halves after new bushings installed. Smear a dab of lithium grease on new hinge pin and drive into place. No staking required, the pin installs from the top side and knurls into the hinge.
Get 2 small lengths of steel mechanics wire and thread both through center of detent spring.
Clamp the spring in a vise, cover with a towel for safety, and tighten spring until coil bind.
Use pliers to twist the 2 pieces of mechanics wire tight enough to keep the spring compressed.
CAREFULLY loosen the vise, ensuring the mechanics wire holds spring tightly together.
Clamp the hinge half in the vise, and insert spring between seat and detent lever.
Snip the mechanics wire loose to allow spring to expand against detent lever. Fish mechanics wire out of the spring.
Force the hinge into its' fully open position and reinstall in reverse order.
Adjust the door fit using hinge-to-body bolts. If you matched original hinge location to door, hinge to door screws shouldn't require adjustment.
This process is time consuming, don't lose patience, results are night and day, Good luck.