|
|
|
#1
10-13-2012, 08:37 AM
|
||||
|
||||
Hand hammered panels
With the onslaught of thin, Chinese, junk metal repair panels, I've gotten better at making my own. I use 18 gauge steel for everything unless it needs to be structural. (ie: a stiffener for mounting something) Then I'll use 14 gauge.
This isn't a Chevelle, I'm just throwing out the fact with minimal tools, (in this case a flat body hammer and a 2" round length of pipe) you can get some pretty decent results. Here's a compound curve in a wheel well arch I did.  ...and here's the trunk pan of a '61 Bel Air I'm doing. Before:  And after:   Also, if a repair panel isn't even offered, ...I have it. These are floors I did to mate a '66 Ford truck to an '85 Bronco chassis while using all the factory mounts for the Bronco interior and center console.  A piece of 18 gauge sheet metal that comes in 4'X8' sheets costs me $40. I can typically do two cars worth of repair panels with that, at least. Yes, it takes more time, but time doesn't cost me anything out of pocket. It also doesn't matter if a repair panel is hard to find or not. With a little time, I have every repair panel I'll ever need leaning up against the wall of the shop.
__________________
Alan 1964 Chevelle SS Speed's expensive, how fast do you want to go? Last edited by earthquake68; 10-13-2012 at 06:28 PM. 
|
|
#2
10-13-2012, 02:18 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Very impressive work.
__________________
Ray 1970 SS Chevelle Van Nuys Built
|
|
#4
10-13-2012, 06:37 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks, guys!
I'll admit I cheat a little. I cut the rust out back far enough that I can cut just one large, intact piece of metal. Then I'll flatten out the metal and trace it out on the new metal. Then re-form the new metal to look like the old one. A little trimming to get it just a hair smaller than the hole it's going in, then I butt weld it in and grind it smooth so the repair is seamless. That's pretty hard to do without the car here. I just bring this up as an alternative to expensive, inferior parts.
__________________
Alan 1964 Chevelle SS Speed's expensive, how fast do you want to go?
|
|
#5
10-14-2012, 07:10 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#6
10-14-2012, 07:45 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Nice work!
I've done some of that type of stuff too. I've been working with 16ga on my Chevelle tunnel (thicker to add structural rigidity to the body). I think when I get back to 18ga, it's going to seem easy. 
__________________
Derek Kiefer, member of Minnesota's Northstar Chevelle Club 69 Malibu Pro-Touring - 69 SS396 3spd - 23 Model T roadster pickup
|
|
#7
10-14-2012, 08:23 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Post up some pictures of the trans tunnel if you want.
__________________
Alan 1964 Chevelle SS Speed's expensive, how fast do you want to go?
|
|
#8
10-14-2012, 09:01 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Trans tunnel big enough to fit T56 with engine raised 1" from stock location (helped with clearances for headers, oil pan, alternator, and A/C pump for LS1 swap)
 Driveshaft tunnel behind it being mocked up:  I don't have a sheetmetal roller, so I had to do it all with shallow bends on a 4' brake. Not much shaping going on there, but I did use the hammer a lot to make stuff fit.
__________________
Derek Kiefer, member of Minnesota's Northstar Chevelle Club 69 Malibu Pro-Touring - 69 SS396 3spd - 23 Model T roadster pickup
|
|
#9
10-16-2012, 10:40 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Not bad at all! The hammer is your friend to close up stubborn gaps!
__________________
Alan 1964 Chevelle SS Speed's expensive, how fast do you want to go?
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
